Cats

DEFINITIONS

For the purposes of this standard the following definitions shall apply:

• Person: An individual, firm, partnership, corporation, trust or any association of persons.
• CFA Cattery: Any person(s) who register a litter of kittens with the Cat Fanciers’ Association or who has registered three or more cats with the Cat Fanciers’ Association or who has registered a cattery name with the Cat Fanciers’ Association.
• Cattery Facility: A building, room or area used to house cats.
• Primary Enclosure: A structure used to immediately restrict one or more cats to a limited amount of space, such as a room, pen, run, cage or compartment.
• Animal Cruelty: Any inhumane or abusive or neglectful treatment causing harm or death of a cat as determined by local law enforcement authorities.
• Cat-in-distress: A cat which is in jeopardy of life or limb, as determined by a qualified animal control officer or veterinarian.
• Litter: Material to be used by the cat for defecation or urination.
• Litter Pan: An enclosure or area in which the litter is placed for the cat to use.

Standards - Cattery Facility

1. The Cattery facility, whether it be a private residence, portion of a private residence or a separate structure not physically connected to a private residence, shall be structurally sound and maintained in good repair to protect the cats from injury, to protect the cats against overexposure to the elements, to contain the cats and to restrict the entrance of other animals.
2. Supplies of food, bedding and interior building surfaces shall be maintained in a sanitary manner.
3. Food shall be transported, handled and stored in a manner that ensures against the introduction of parasites, disease vectors (such as insects) or chemical contaminants. Supplies of dry food shall be store din area that are cool, dry, clean and free of v ermin and other potential contaminants. Refrigeration shall be provided for supplies of perishable food. Conditions affecting the shelf life of food such as date of manufacture, exposure to extremes in temperature and humidity, exposure to moisture, uns anitary conditions, exposure to light, exposure to oxygen, and exposure to insects shall be monitored to prevent deterioration of the nutrient value of food.
4. The facility shall be adequately heated and cooled to protect the cats from excessive cold and heat. The ambient temperature shall be maintained in a range that ensures that the cats will not suffer from heat stress (heat stroke or hyperthermia) nor from cold stress (frostbite or hypothermia).
5. The facility shall be adequately ventilated to provide for the health and comfort of the cats at all times. The facility shall be provided with a source of fresh air by means of windows, doors, or vents and shall be ventilated in a manner that minimizes drafts, odors and moisture conditions.
6. The facility shall have ample light of good quality by natural or artificial means or both. The lighting shall provide uniformly distributed illumination of sufficient intensity to permit routine inspection, cleaning and provide for the well-being of the cats. The cats shall be protected from excessive illumination.
7. When sunlight is likely to cause overheating or discomfort, sufficient shade shall be provided to allow cats to protect themselves from direct rays of the sun.
8. An access to shelter shall be provided for cats to allow them to remain dry at all times.

Standards - Primary Enclosures

Primary enclosures shall provide a microenvironment that satisfies the standards for the Cattery Facility as well as the following additional standards:

1. A primary enclosure shall be structurally sound and maintained in good repair to protect the cats from injury, to contain them, to keep other animals out, and to enable the cats to remain dry and clean.
2. A primary enclosure shall provide sufficient space to allow each enclosed cat to turn freely and to easily stand, sit and lie in a comfortable position. The minimum primary enclosure space for a single 4 lbs. Or greater cat is to be 30 cubic feet. Where the primary enclosure is used for more than one cat, resting perches shall be provided.
3. A primary enclosure shall be constructed and maintained so that cats therein have convenient access to clean food, water and litter.
4. The number of cats in a primary enclosure shall not exceed the number which would prevent proper ventilation and sanitation.
5. A primary enclosure shall not be constructed or maintained with an exposed wire mesh bottom or any other material that will injure the feet or legs of a cat.
6. If the primary enclose is not of sufficient size to allow the cat(s) to express their specialized locomotor patterns, then a area shall be made available for the cat(s) to exercise and scratch at least once a day.

Feeding and Water

1. Cats shall be fed at least once each day except as otherwise required by a veterinarian. The foods shall be free from contamination and shall be wholesome, palatable and of sufficient quantity and nutritive value to meet the normal daily requirements for the condition and size of the cat. Food shall be provided in sufficient amounts to ensure normal growth in kittens and maintenance of normal body weight in adults.
2. Food receptacles shall be accessible to all cats and shall be located to prevent contamination by excreta. Feeding dishes shall be kept clean. Self-feeders may be used for the feeding of dry food and shall be sanitized regularly to prevent molding, deteri oration or caking of food.

Cleaning and Sanitation

1. Primary enclosures, the cattery facility and storage spaces shall be cleaned with appropriate detergents and disinfectants as often as is necessary to keep them free of dirt, debris and harmful contamination.
2. Easily accessible litter pans shall be provided for all cats at all times.
3. Feces and soiled litter material shall be removed from all litter pans at least once a day.
4. Absorbent litter and/or any other material used to absorb urine shall be changed when it becomes 30 percent saturated with urine.
5. The cattery facility shall be kept clean and remain free of an accumulation of debris and excreta.
6. All primary enclosures and accessory equipment, such as feeding bowls and watering devices, shall be washed and sanitized frequently to keep them clean and free from contamination.
7. An effective program for the control of insects, ectoparasites and mammalian pests, if present, shall be established and maintained using animal safe products.

Health Care

1. The cattery shall promptly provide medical care to any cat-in-distress and/or any cat exhibiting signs of severe illness.
2. Cats shall be observed daily and diseased cats shall promptly be provided with medical care.
3. A vaccination program, under advice of a veterinarian, is recommended.
4. Cats shall be kept clean, free of severe coat mats and generally groomed sufficiently to maintain a healthy condition.

Cruelty

1. Cats residing in the cattery facility shall be treated humanely and without neglect.
2. Catteries shall not allow a cat to be deprived of necessary sustenance, deprived of potable water, deprived of clean quarters, deprived of protection from weather, beaten, mutilated, cruelly treated or allow, through neglect, any situation to exist or per sist that would cause a cat-in-distress condition to occur or persist.

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A cattery environment inspection program exists for catteries registered with The Cat Fanciers’ Association, Inc. (CFA). A cattery is a mutiple-cat household maintained for the purpose of perpetuating and protecting the heritage and desirable traits of the various breeds of pedigreed cats. The program, which went into effect on July 1, 1992 offers CFA registered catteries an opportunity to voluntarily participate in the CFA Approved Cattery Environment Program(ACEP).

The cattery inspections are conducted by licensed veterinarians, using criteria established by CFA. The ACEP program has two tiers: “CFA Approved Cattery” and “CFA Cattery of Excellence”. The inspection and approval process encompasses the environmental conditions of the cattery.

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Just as there is no perfect cat, there is no perfect cattery. Most breeders must work within the confines of available space, number, sex, and breeds of cats to be housed. Financial considerations are always a factor.

There are, however, a few general things to think about. If possible, have the cattery on the ground floor. Hauling litter up and down stairs should be avoided. Have the cattery easily accessible and keep no more cats than you can comfortably take care of. Above all, keep the design simple.

In addition to cages, you want storage space and a grooming table. A kitchen counter unit will provide drawers for medications and grooming utensils, undercounter storage for cleaning paraphernalia, and a top service for mixing and serving food. A grooming table should be provided with strong light. All food and water dishes should be nonporous unless disposable paper plates are used.

In summing up, as long as you keep the cattery simple, use nonporous materials, provide plenty of light, space and circulating air and clean & disinfect on a regular basis, you should have healthy cats and enough time left over to enjoy your animals.

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 David S. Biller, DVM, DACVR
Associate Professor and Head of Radiology, Department of Clinical Sciences
College of Veterinary Medicine, Kansas State University

Stephen DiBartola, DVM, DACVIM
Professor and Head of Small Animal Medicine
Department of Veterinary Clinical Sciences
College of Veterinary Medicine, The Ohio State University

Wilma J. Lagerwerf, RVT, RLAT, AHT
Ailsa Craig, Ontario, Canada

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Polycystic kidney disease is an inherited kidney disease that has been found in Persian cats. Feline Polycystic Disease (PKD) has been reported sporadically in literature since 1967, but actual study info into this renal disease did not begin until 1990. An affected six year old female Persian was referred to The Ohio State University teaching hospital with large kidneys and symptoms of renal failure that were ultimately diagnosed as PKD. Offspring of this female were used to start a colony and begin research into this condition.Shown above is a 6 week old feline polycystic kidney. Pictured below are a normal feline kidney and an adult feline end stage polycystic kidney.

WHAT DOES THIS DISEASE CAUSE IN CATS?

Polycystic disease is a disease that shows up later in life (late onset) with enlarged kidneys and kidney dysfunction occurring between three and 10 years of age (on average at seven years of age). The condition is inherited and cysts are present from birth, but are smaller in younger animals. Cyst size can vary from less than 1 mm to greater than 1 cm in size, with older animals having larger and more numerous cysts. Problems occur when these cysts start to grow and progressively enlarge the kidney, reducing the kidney’s ability to function properly. The ultimate end is kidney failure. Some of the clinical signs are depression, lack of or reduced appetite, excessive thirst, excessive urination and weight loss. There is a marked difference in when and how quickly individual cats succumb, with the possibility of this developing late enough in life that the cat can die of other causes before kidney failure. However, kidney failure is certain when the cysts can grow and cause problems. Rarely, cysts are also seen in other organs such as the liver and uterus.

HOW PKD IS DIAGNOSED

PKD is most easily diagnosed by ultrasound. Ultrasound is a non-invasive imaging technique that can identify the disease very early in its course. All that is required is a mid-ventral abdominal area hair clip and a short time period for imaging to detect the presence of cysts. With the proper equipment and experienced personnel, this can be done as early as eight weeks of age. Usually, the older the cat the larger the cysts and the easier to detect. Ultrasound diagnosis is 98% accurate after approximately 10 months of age.

HOW DOES A CAT BECOME AFFECTED BY PKD?

PKD is not a contagious disease. Dr. David Biller of Kansas State University has recently completed studies and published results showing PKD to be an Autosomal Dominant inherited trait. Published results are in the Journal of Heredity. 1996:87:1-5.As a quick review of genetics, an autosomal dominant gene is one which shows itself if it is present, even if inherited only from one parent. This means that a PKD free cat is also genetically PKD free. If a cat is PKD positive, then it must be either heterozygous (inherited the gene from one parent) OR homozygous (inherited the gene from both parents). In the chart below, simple Mendelian genetics are outlined to understand how this (and ANY autosomal dominant trait) condition is inherited.

WHAT IS THE TREATMENT FOR THIS DISEASE?

There is no specific treatment for this disease. Treatment is similar to treatment of chronic kidney failure of any cause. This treatment includes moderate dietary protein restriction using high biological value protein, dietary phosphorus restriction, providing fresh drinking water at all times, use of phosphate binders, and treatment of the anemia if necessary. Much more work needs to be done on polycystic kidney disease in cats to understand its underlying causes and devise effective treatment strategies.

HOW DOES A BREEDER ELIMINATE PKD FROM A BREEDING COLONY?

As PKD is the result of an autosomal dominant gene, it is relatively easy to track and eliminate. All breeding animals need to have an ultrasound to detect the presence of kidney cysts. It takes a few minutes with little or no sedation needed. If positive, then go back (if possible) and check parents. The quickest way to eliminate the problem is to neuter and spay these individuals. If a particular breeding stud or queen is extremely valuable, then it is still possible to produce kittens that are PKD negative, IF the other parent is PKD negative and IF the PKD positive parent is heterozygous. Refer to the charts below for the inheritance pattern(s). When the produced kittens are old enough, an ultrasound can be performed to determine their PKD status. This way a replacement of the concerned bloodline can be chosen and the affected parent neutered. It is theorized that PKD is far more common in Persians than is currently diagnosed. With more study and published information about the disease, breeders and veterinarians can work to establish PKD-free breeding programs. In this manner this genetic health problem can be eliminated.

Related Links:

1. Report on June 1998 PKD Seminar

Normal feline kidney

Related Link

• Polycystic Kidney Disease Seminar

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When we have only one cat and she misses the litterbox, it can be hard to fix. When we have more than one cat in the house, it can be even harder. Here’s a step-by-step guide to help stop litterbox problems in a multi-cat home.

1. Act Fast. A litterbox problem that continues for a long time can become harder and harder to solve. Litterbox mistakes can lead to territorial responses, and disturb the routines and hierarchies of your entire household. Will Muffin still want to take her daily afternoon snooze on the couch if Tiger urinated there? She may find some other area, displacing more and more of your cats, and creating fighting and other dominance displays. If you put off solving the problem, hoping it will go away on its own, you may find it multiplying in your home.
2. Find the Culprit. Before you even try to determine the “why,” figure out the “who.” If you catch it early enough, you can hopefully nail it down to one cat. Many people like to isolate each cat to determine which cat is causing the problem, but displacing one cat, even overnight, can sometimes lead to dominance displays in the others, as they claim undefended territory. If you have new cats, or kittens reaching adulthood, you may want to visit the vet for help. Your veterinarian can prescribe fluorescein for your cats, helping you to determine which urine stain(s) glow under an ultraviolet light.
3. Rule out a Veterinary Problem. Veterinary causes underlie many litterbox problems, particularly in household with older cats or those with access to the outdoors. Urinary tract infections are one of many common causes, where the cat develops an aversion to the box as a painful place to be. Other health problems can also cause litterbox mistakes. Worse, without visiting the veterinarian, your other cats may be at risk, which could cause the problem to multiply. No behavior techniques in the world will help a cat with a veterinary problem, so don’t skip the trip to the vet.
4. Observe the Behavior. If the vet rules out a health problem, I next recommend a brief observation period. It’s always very frustrating to the owner to let the cat continue his litterbox mistakes, but it gives you the knowledge to attack the specific problem. During the observation period, try to concentrate on the things in the environment that may be important to your cat, like litterboxes, food bowls, favorite places, the routines of the other cats and people in the home, etc. Start a journal where you record as much information as you can about every litterbox mistake, then look for links. Does the cat always use the same room? Is it always on carpeting? Does it happen after meals, or at some other time of day? Are the other cats nearby? Did you have guests over? When you isolate the specific stimuli involved, it allows you greater control without making major changes in the environment that may upset the rest of the cats.
5. Break the Habit. Elimination sites are matters of preference, and when the cat gets into the routine of going to a certain location, you’ll need to prevent the behavior from recurring. Since the smell of declining urine is a signal for the cat to “reapply,” clean the accident site with a pet odor remover - perhaps multiple times to get past the cat’s sensitive nose. Block off the area while the product does its work. Remote deterrents, that work whether you are around or not, will keep the cat from returning to the area whenever you aren’t standing guard. Double-sided tape or an upside-down plastic carpet runner, pointy feet up, can keep your cat from standing in the same area. Cats also hate to be startled, so anything that can safely surprise the cat when he visits that area can help make the area less “cat-friendly.”
6. Make the Current Litterbox More Appealing. While you are preventing bad habits, make good habits more appealing. The litterbox should be clean, have privacy, and in multi-cat homes, escapability is also important. This simply means that the cat can see off a distance, so he won’t be ambushed in the box, or on his way there. Most cats prefer clumping, non-perfumed litter, but work with your individual cat to determine whether a box of a different size, shape, or litter would help.
7. Retrain? If it doesn’t seem to help to address the individual factors in your journal, or your cat has never regularly used the litterbox, you may want to retrain the cat by himself. Use this as a last resort, since removing the cat from the hierarchy may upset the routines of all the cats in the home. Keep the cat in a small, uncarpeted room, with a clean litterbox, food bowl, and toys in opposite corners. Pick up all rugs from the floor, so the only soft place to choose to eliminate will be the litterbox. Visit the cat often, and clean the box regularly. I also recommend recording the times that the cat uses the box. Many cats stick to a regular routine, so once you’ve determined when the cat is likely to use the box, you can let the cat out during low-risk times to maintain the hierarchy, and put him back in the room with the litterbox during high risk periods. Repetition of successful use will increase the cat’s preference to the box.
8. General Stress Reduction. In some situations, it’s difficult to determine specific environmental triggers for a problem behavior. However, sometimes general stress reduction techniques will prove helpful, particularly in multi-cat homes. For litterbox problems that have arisen from territorial disputes, additional resources may reduce competition for resources. Extra litterboxes and food bowls are always helpful, but remember that YOU are also an important resource, so give each cat as much attention as they could possibly want. Exercise can also help redirect cats energies. It can also help desensitize cats to each other, while they are praised for attacking a toy while the other cat watches. Routines are also very important in multi-cat homes, particularly when older cats are involved. Scheduled feeding, petting and exercise periods at the same time and location every day can further reduce stress that may be contributing to the litterbox problem.

Litterbox problems in multi-cat homes can be difficult. However, caring responsible owners can have an advantage solving the problem with they use quick, decisive actions and apply solid behavioral techniques.

Copyright 1999 by Steve Aiiken
Reprinted with permission. All rights reserved.

Last Updated: Tuesday, January 02, 2007

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 by Susan Little DVM, Diplomate ABVP (Feline)

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Feline asthma has been called by many other names, including chronic bronchitis, bronchial asthma, and allergic bronchitis. Regardless of the name, it is a common feline ailment. Inhaled allergens cause sudden contraction of the smooth muscles around airways, leading to typical clinical symptoms. It is usually impossible to determine which allergens cause asthma in individual cats, but common ones include grass and tree pollens, cigarette or fireplace smoke, various sprays (hair sprays, deodorants, flea sprays, deodorizers), and dust from cat litter.

Feline asthma is found in all areas of the world and in cats of all ages. The prevalence in the general adult cat population is about 1%. The most common symptoms in cats with asthma are wheezing and coughing. The coughing has been described as a dry, hacking cough that could be confused with gagging or retching. Many cats are misdiagnosed as having hairballs! Paroxysms of coughing occur frequently. In mildly affected cats, coughing and wheezing may occur only occasionally. A few cats with asthma are asymptomatic in between acute and severe bouts of airway constriction. The most severely affected cats have daily coughing and wheezing and many bouts of airway constriction, leading to open-mouth breathing and panting that can be life threatening.

The symptoms of asthma can mimic other diseases, such as heartworm, pneumonia and congestive heart failure. A diagnosis is reached by using chest x-rays, a complete blood count, a feline heartworm test, and a techniques to sample cells from the lower airways (transtracheal wash, bronchial wash, or bronchoalveolar lavage). Chest x-rays may be normal in some cats with asthma, while others will have signs of bronchial inflammation, collapse of the right middle lung lobe, and over inflation of the lungs.

Unfortunately, feline asthma is a chronic progressive disease that cannot be fully cured. Medications can reduce the symptoms of asthma a great deal, but may not be able to eliminate coughing fully. In recent years, veterinarians have found that the most effective therapy for feline asthma may be to use inhalers such as human asthmatics use. A mask and spacer system, called AeroKat�, has been invented to enable cats to use inhalers or puffers. This system is similar to the mask and spacer system used to treat babies and small children.

The most important type of drug for treating feline asthma is a corticosteroid to reduce the chronic inflammation. The most commonly prescribed corticosteroid inhaler is Flovent�. Some feline patients also benefit from another type of medication called a bronchodilator. Bronchodilators help open the airway at times of severe coughing or wheezing. One common bronchodilator inhaler used for humans and cats is Apo-Salvent�.

Some feline asthmatics may be given oral medication. This may be necessary if the patient does not respond well to inhaler therapy alone, but the amount of oral medication given is usually less than if the cat was not on inhaler therapy at all. Many patients that started asthma therapy a few years or more ago will be only on oral therapy, usually a corticosteroid such as prednisone. While oral therapy may be less expensive than inhaler therapy, it is suspected that inhaler therapy can do a better job and is associated with fewer long-term side effects. Regardless of the type of medication used, it is important to notify your veterinarian if there is any change in your cat’s condition while on asthma medication.

Some actions can be taken in the home to reduce the symptoms of feline asthma. Avoiding smoke from fireplaces and cigarettes is very important. This type of smoke tends to settle near the floor in a room at the cat’s breathing level. Reducing the use of air fresheners and other household sprays can also be effective. Use human grooming products that are in spray form, such as hair sprays or deodorants, well away from the affected cat. Change to a low-dust clay cat litter or one that is made of an alternate material. Air purifiers may also be helpful. Any activity that is associated with symptoms of asthma in the individual cat, such as going outside in cold weather, should be avoided. Finally, obese cats will benefit from weight reduction.

For further information:

• http://www.fritzthebrave.com
• http://www.aerokat.com

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Progress Report
By Susan Little, DVM, Diplomate ABVP (Feline)
J.N. MacLeod, J.F. Randolph; Funded 2000, 2001
College of Veterinary Medicine, Cornell University, Ithaca, NY

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Anemia is commonly associated with certain diseases in the cat, especially chronic renal failure and some cancers or cancer therapies. A hormone called erythropoietin (EPO) is produced by the kidneys and stimulates the bone marrow to produce new red blood cells to replace old and worn ones in circulation. In diseases such as chronic renal failure, EPO levels may be decreased and anemia may develop as a result. Typical signs associated with anemia are decreased activity and poor appetite.

Recombinant (synthetic) human EPO (rhEPO) has been available for over 10 years, and has been used with some success in cats to correct these anemias. However, since rhEPO is not identical to feline EPO, some patients eventually produce antibodies against the drug. The antibodies not only prevent rhEPO therapy from being effective, but also may lead to severe and life-threatening anemia by concurrently binding and removing any residual EPO still being made by the cat’s own kidneys.

Dr. James MacLeod’s lab at Cornell University has developed a method to produce recombinant feline EPO (rfEPO) in large enough quantities for therapeutic use. Dr. MacLeod’s team has already successfully produced recombinant canine EPO and has done clinical trials in dogs. They believe the use of rfEPO will be an effective treatment for EPO-dependent anemias in cats, and should not be associated with the same adverse side effects as rhEPO. The rfEPO has already been evaluated for bioactivity in tissue culture and mice, and it has been found to be similar in effectiveness to the commercially available rhEPO.

Currently, trials of rfEPO are being conducted in feline veterinary patients suffering from non-regenerative anemia associated with chronic renal failure. When owners are invited to participate with their cats, they are given full information on the study including its expected benefits and any potential risks. The researchers hope to follow 30 cats with chronic renal failure being treated with rfEPO for one year. During this time, regular bloodwork will help evaluate the effectiveness of the therapy as well as monitor for any adverse effects.

The future availability of rfEPO as a result of this research project may prove to be a safe and effective treatment option for many feline patients suffering from anemia associated with chronic renal failure and some cancers. It is expected to help these patients survive longer and with a better quality of life.

For further reading:

1. Cowgill, L., K. James, et al. (1998). Use of Recombinant Human Erythropoietin for Management of Anemia in Dogs and Cats with Renal Failure. Journal of American Veterinary Medical Association 212(4): 521.
2. MacLeod, J., J. Tetreault, et al. (1998). Expression and Bioactivity of Recombinant Canine Erythropoietin. American Journal of Veterinary Research 59(9): 1144.
3. Randolph, J., T. Stokol, et al. (1999). Comparison of Biological Activity and Safety of Recombinant Canine Erythropoietin with that of Recombinant Human Erythropoietin in Clinically Normal Dogs. American Journal of Veterinary Research 60(5): 636.

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 Declawing of Cats - CFA guidance statement
Approved by the CFA Board of Directors - October 1996 and revised June 2003
by Joan Miller
CFA Health CommitteeCFA’s Health Committee proposed the following guidance statement on the declawing of cats after review of the Canadian Veterinary Medical Association’s (CVMA) position concerning declawing, and after research of scientific articles and information from the Cornell Feline Health Center, from Joan Miller’s files of cat fancy and animal shelter materials and by talking with veterinarians, feline behavioral specialists, The American Veterinary Medical Association (AVMA), the President of the American College of Behaviorists and the Director of Ethical Studies at the San Francisco SPCA. At the October 1996 meeting, the CFA Board unanimously approved a guidance statement on the declawing of cats. A revised guidance statement was approved at the June 2003 Board meeting.

“The Cat Fanciers’ Association recognizes that scratching is a natural behavior of cats and that cats may be defenseless without full use of their claws if they, either intentionally or unintentionally, go outdoors. Scratching damage to household furnishings can be minimized or avoided by routine clipping of the claws, the use of claw covers and by redirecting the cat’s activity to acceptable surfaces.

CFA perceives the declawing of cats (onychectomy ) and the severing of digital tendons (tendonectomy) to be elective surgical procedures that are without benefit to the cat. Because of the discomfort associated with any surgery and potential future behavioral or physical effects, CFA disapproves of routine declawing or tendonectomy surgery in lieu of alternative solutions to prevent household damage. In certain situations, including high risk of injury or disease transmission to owners with bleeding disorders or compromised immune systems, declawing may be justified in order to maintain the cat-human bond. ”

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Information summary

Surgical procedures:The most common surgical procedure, onychectomy, or “declawing”, is amputation of the claw and the end toe bone joint. The surgery has a reputation for causing pain for a week or more and the possibility of postoperative complications, such as infection, hemorrhage, nail regrowth and altered feeling in the toes for some time after surgery. There is disagreement as to whether declawing leads to behavioral problems in cats. There is concern for the welfare of cats who can not defend themselves or climb to safety if they are able to go outside. A declawed cat will still scratch but without damage to furnishings.

An alternative surgical procedure, deep digital flexor tendonectomy, was first described by John Rife, DVM (Journal AAHA, Jan/Feb 1988). This surgery involves severing the tendon attached to the end toe digit but maintaining the claw in the sheath. It is not possible to detect the surgery visually but the cat is no longer able to extend the claws. The technique limits the cat’s ability to damage surfaces when scratching as long as the claws are kept trimmed. It is less painful (cats recover within 2 days) and it has minimal postoperative risks. However, ongoing claw trimming is a must or the cat can use its claws again to some degree and there is a risk of ingrowth into the paw pads. Some veterinarians have reported joint fusion and arthritis problems. The technique has not been favored by most veterinarians mainly because of the above negative factors and the potential of the client’s dissatisfaction and ultimate desire for declawing.

Behavioral aspects:

Animal behaviorists currently believe that the main function of scratching for the cat is communication. It is natural, instinctual behavior. Scratching involves not only leaving a visual mark but it is an attention getting, happiness display. Ideally the cat should be encouraged in this behavior; however, because of damage to furnishings, most cat owners reach a compromise with the cat by claw clipping and redirecting to other acceptable surfaces or using the relatively new claw guards, and most cats are adaptable enough to accept this arrangement. In addition cats raised by pedigreed cat breeders can be deterred even further by early kitten handling. (My own experience indicates that scratching becomes an ingrained habit which initially surfaces at the time a 4 or 5 week old kitten becomes aware of the magic of its claws when he pulls himself over the kitten box. This is when all cat habits, like use of the litter box, start to develop.) Breeders can greatly minimize the scratching habit, and associated problems, by not allowing access to attractive home furnishing surfaces (i.e. fabrics, carpet) and by only making acceptable scratching surfaces available, such as cardboard or rope posts, until the kitten reaches the age of 8 to 10 weeks. Cattery raised kittens can have good scratching habits ingrained during this early period.

The majority of American veterinarians perform declawing surgery, either routinely suggesting it to clients or as a last resort for cats that would face euthanasia. Many cat owners who have their cats declawed because of a perceived cat damage “problem” have not even tried any other solution first. The veterinary scientific literature supports the claims that there are no differences in undesirable behaviors of cats before and after declawing. However, my reading of the studies, executed in the 80’s, which are the basis of this belief, reveals that the investigators themselves admit that there may have been special circumstances involved and that the numbers of cats were too few for significant results. From one article it was stated that an “owner is more likely to undertake the expense of having a scratching cat declawed when that cat has many desirable traits”. (Effects of declawing on feline behavior; Bennett, et al; Companion Animal Practice, Dec. 1988.)

There is no question that most humane shelters have taken a strong stand against declawing and there are numerous anecdotal reports of behavior problems in declawed cats. In some countries, such as Great Britain, declawing (except for medical reasons) is not permitted. Tuffs University School of Veterinary Medicine advocates thoroughly exploring noninvasive options and only if a client considers getting rid of the cat performing surgical removal The AVMA policy is as follows: “The declawing of the domestic cat is justifiable when the cat can not be trained to refrain from using its claws destructively. (1994)”

At the October 1996 meeting the CFA Board of Directors also approved an addition to the showrules which disallows tendonectomy in show cats. The showrules also were modified to allow claw covers in the household pet class.

References:

1. John Rife, DVM , Journa of the AAHA, Jan/Feb 1988, vol 24, pg 73-76
2. Bennett, et.al; Companion Animal Practice, Dec. 1988, pg 7-12
3. AVMA policy - FAX to J.Miller
4. Canadian Veterinary Medical Association policy - FAX to J.Miller

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(For Cats Only)

GuideCats Jaspurr, Joey, and Billy have commandeered the keyboard for this feature article. They’ve solicited the Kitty Net for ways to drive us humans crazy (as if they needed any outside help). I’m sure you will recognize at least one or two of these subtle kitty tactics for making you wonder if your sanity is going south. So, for my fellow human victims of cats’ fiendishness, remember that forewarned is forearmed.

1. The Fake Food-Beg

View Full-Size © Franny Syufy Practice your most pitiful meow, conbined with an expression of imminent starvation. When you have both down pat, follow your human around, mewing pathetically, and licking your lips whenever she looks at you. When she finally relents and dishes out a bit of your favorite food, sniff it disdainfully, then “cover” the food by scratching the floor around it. Extra points for dragging something over to actually cover the food. Her new silk underwear would work well.

2. The 3 a.m. Wakeup Call

In the wee hours of the morning, go to the furthest place from your human’s sleeping place and wail loudly and pitifully. When he or she finally gets up to investigate the problem, assume a sleeping position and keep your eyes tightly closed. Wait 15 minutes after your human returns to bed, then repeat. Caution: Do not repeat more than three times. You want your slave–err, human, well rested in the morning so she can wait on you all day.

3. Stare at Nothing at All

View Full-Size © Franny Syufy Find a focal point on the wall (preferably with nothing at all around it) and stare fixedly. When your human inquires as to what you are looking at, ignore him entirely. When he finally gets up and goes over to investigate, look away and fix your gaze at another blank spot on an opposite wall. This one is bound to cause a great deal of animated discussion on the Cat Forum. Bipeds will never get it, which makes it more fun for us cats. Jaspurr is particularly good at this game because of his enormous round eyes.

4. The Box Game

The day will come when your human mom or dad will bring home a new toy for you. Pretend a great deal of anticipation and interest when she sets the box containing the toy on the floor. When she brings out the toy from the box, treat it with catly scorn (you know how), and focus your entire attention on the box it came in. The more lively your box play, the more fun this game can be. (You can always secretly inspect the toy when your human isn’t looking.)

5. The Death-Defying Leap

View Full-Size © Franny Syufy Although none of us every knew Shannon, we grew up hearing our humans telling stories about his death-defying leaps. From their tones of admiration, we surmised that these feats not only scared the heck out of our humans, they also insited the utmost respect. Joey has purrfected an upward leap from the top of our 6′ tower to the “balcony” (as they call it), above.You may not be impressed, but you should understand that 1) the target is about four feet higher than the tower, 2) The landing place has a railing with a six inch gap at the bottom, so Joey must choose to land under it or hurl himself over it; and 3) If he slips, it’s about a 10-foot drop to the hard Mexican tile floor below. (Note that fear didn’t keep Mom from filming it.)

6. Develop an Addiction

Billy’s “drug” of choice is fish flakes: melt-on-your-tongue morsels of shaved albacore tuna. Billy’s advice: Develop a unique maow for begging purposes. When your human finally gives you some, watch carefully to see where he puts the container. The next time you get a craving, drag the container up the stairs to his bedroom and rap on the door with it. It’s hard to maow with a fish flakes can in your mouth, but it really works. His heart will melt when he sees the depths of your need.

7. The Calculated Ignore Game

Hi there; Joey here. My funnest game is to stroll slowly past my human when she is sitting down, trailing my tail across her leg in a loving manner. I’ll then rub my face on the corner of a nearby table, all the time purring and putting on a display of affection. When she attempts to pet me or lure me onto her lap, I’ll casually saunter away, leaving her bewildered and frustrated. Works for me!

8. Camera Play

View Full-Size © Franny Syufy One of our humans’ favorite activities is pointing the black light-box at us to capture our most clever moments in what they call “pictures.” Our favorite game is to arrange ourselves in stunningly cute poses, then move quickly or look away when the camera comes out. Is it any wonder that most cat pictures show us sleeping, or with our backs cleverly turned away from the camera?Tips: Extra points for closing your eyes, moving until your ears are cropped off. Red eye images are great too!

9. Bed Hog 101

You have to be a particularly spoiled cat who is encouraged to sleep with your humans to try this trick. Arrange yourself between your humans for starters, lying lengthwise and parallel to them. Once they drift off to sleep, gradually move around until you are stretched across the bed between them. Humans are fairly resiliant during sleep, and will heed your pushing with your feet, until they are each clinging to their own slim sides of the bed, and you own the rest. Bliss!

10. The Newspaper Game

View Full-Size © Franny Syufy This is the opposite of the Calculated Ignore, so feel free to mix it up every so often. We all know that humans are fascinated by those deliciously crinkly toys they call newspapers. Just when your human is feeling a bit down, give him the attention he so sorely needs. The very best time to do so is when he has gone to his newspaper for comfort. Joey here, learned at a very earlier age how to help his human Daddy get the most pleasure out of his newspaper. Works every time!

11. Turn on the Love

When your human has had a particularly hectic day, and is fed up with your ruthless games, take a break and turn on the love, as only cats can. Jump on her lap and give her your most sleepy-eyed lovie gaze, as if you adore her more than anyone else in the world. This may come naturally to some of you. Others may need to practice, but we guarantee that the time will come when you’ll feel the love for real, and the rewards will be priceless.

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History of the American Shorthair: Reprint of Cat Fancy Magazine article by Mary Jo Mersol-Barg.

Retired Friends: FBRL’s listing of American Shorthair cats retired from breeding and available for adoption.

Breed Profile Resources: More profile information about the American Shorthair Breed, assembled by your Guide.

American Shorthair Breeders: Listing of American Shorthair Breeders. These sites are listed for the convenience of the viewer, and listing does not constitute recommendation.

The All-American Cat: The American Shortair cat’s body is medium to large, solid, muscular and powerful; a real “cat’s cat.” His coat is short, dense and thick, in a myriad of colors, in tabby, parti-color and bi-color patterns.

Trivia Corner: The American Shorthair was one of the first five breeds recognized by the CFA, and was originally called the “Domestic Shorthair.”

If you are looking for a low maintenance cat, the American Shorthair is right up your alley. They are solidly built cats, descendants of ancestors who arrived from Europe with the early pioneers, and are full-fledged All-American cats, just as the descendants of those human pioneers are All-Americans today.

In the early part of the 20th Century breeders started selectively breeding the American Shorthair in order to preserve its native quality. The result is a cat that is consistently rated among the most popular cat breeds.

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